Christmas Tree 2011

We picked up our tree a few days ago (from Dunshee House, supporting a good cause), but it’s been sitting bare in the living room since Tuesday. Meagan’s mom is visiting, which provided good motivation to string up the lights and put on the decorations.

The completed tree.

We’re pretty sure no one else has a cheetah as a tree topper.

Sentimental ornaments.

Lulu’s Christmas present from JJ last year (or the year before?).

Irish heritage.

Bears at Whistler!

I may have hinted at a “treat” to get Lulu to not look grumpy…

Season’s Greetings!

 

Early Season Hiking, Riding, and Grilling at Stevens Pass

We have a bit of a tradition to head up to Stevens Pass for some hiking, riding, and grilling when Stevens has enough snow to ride but before they’re officially open. Well, this year, the snow fell so fast that we didn’t get a chance to beat them to opening day! But, the area we normally hike (near Big Chief) wasn’t open yet, so the tradition remained intact.

Most of us now have some form of backcountry ski gear, which made the trip even more fun. I was finally testing out my Prior Splitboard, which had been sitting partially assembled in the TV room all summer until I finally was motivated to trim the skins late this week (which fortunately was pretty easy).

So, a bunch of us and the dogs headed up on Saturday morning. I was “encouraged” to make some pancakes since most people were meeting at our place. After the drive up, we sorted out the gear and got ready to head up the hill. Skinning up was great! Definitely beats hiking in snowboard boots and the best part is not lugging the board on your backpack. Switching between touring and riding mode was a snap, aside from me putting the skins and bindings on backwards for the second run (tip looks like tail…). And of course watching Lulu and Sadie sprinting excitedly through the ski and snowboard tracks is pretty awesome.

We made two runs in total (with good, light powdery conditions!) before the most important part of the day…burgers. The burgers, chips, and beers provided little relief from the pretty cold day, but we huddled around the charcoal embers for a few hours trying to stay warm and soaking the day in. We made a pact to make sure we do this again when the sun is out!

A few pictures from the day:

Ming making the climb…

Shawn ripping it down…

Lulu lovin’ it…

The crew enjoying a beer at the top of the second hike…

Phenomenal head gear…

Grillin’…

Sam and others get a yellow card for bailing…

More on Smugmug.

Matt’s pictures.

Meagan’s Graduation

It might seem silly at this point to blog about something that happened almost four months ago, except that your wife becoming a doctor struck me as something that I should write about, even if it’s a little late. I’m also slowly trying to unbury myself from a mountain of unprocessed photos. And given the amount of airtime my blog devotes to ski and bike trips, it’s only fair that such an accomplishment as Meagan graduating from UW School of Medicine and earning her MD degree (MD MD!), after four years of extraordinarily hard work spanning many classes, medical rotations, and multi-week assignments to various outposts in the Pacific Northwest, receive more than an 140 character tweet.

Graduation weekend was very sunny and picturesque. I think it was the last pleasant weekend in Seattle in June before the onslaught of crappy weather that didn’t end until mid-July. Meagan’s parents and grandparents made the trek for the weekend, as did my dad.

The festivities for the weekend included:

  • Friday night: Salmon BBQ at our house
  • Saturday morning: Graduation!
  • Saturday afternoon: Brunch at Portage Bay Cafe in Ballard
  • Saturday night: Dinner at Canlis (awesome…), drinks with some of Meagan’s newly minted doctor classmates in Ballard.

On Sunday, we roamed around the Ballard Market and the locks before dropping our dads off at the airport. On Monday, Meagan, her mom, and her grandparents continued the celebration for a few days up in Victoria, BC.

A few pictures from the wonderful weekend are below.

More pictures on Smugmug.

Congrats baby!

Misadventures on the High Pass Challenge

What better way to spend a Sunday then to get up at 4:30am in Centralia, drive 90 minutes east to a small Washington town called “Packwood”, and bike 115 miles with 7500 ft of elevation gain in 92F heat? If you answered, “riding the 2011 High Pass Challenge“, you’d be correct! It was probably my most challenging bike ride to date. It was undoubtedly my most incident-filled one.

The planning started a few months ago when my friends Dan and Tom invited me to join them for the ride. Having done the 200 mile (but mostly flat) STP last year, the “115 miles with some hills” of the High Pass Challenge, while not exactly sounding like a picnic, didn’t seem too daunting either. And since Tom was making the trouble to fly up from California and I haven’t ridden much with Dan lately, I thought “why not!”.

This summer, however, I haven’t trained nearly as much as last year. Prior to July 30th, I had one ride under my belt that was longer than 15 miles. Time to step it into gear! I did manage to put in some longer weekend rides in the intervening weeks, including a 75-miler last weekend, which I had hoped would give me enough stamina to grind out the hills on the High Pass Challenge.

I didn’t realize until a few days before that Packwood is two and a half hours from Seattle, making a 7am start line departure challenging. We weighed our travel options, and decided to cut the pre-ride trek in half by staying at our friend Brian’s cabin in Centralia. So, on Saturday evening, I loaded up the car and headed south on I-5. Dan and Tom had left a bit earlier.

After making it to Centralia, I then drove the three miles up the highlands towards Brian’s cabin. The cabin is on a rocky, unpaved road, and I wasn’t too careful avoiding potholes. On one of them, going down the hill, I heard a bit of a thud, but didn’t think much of it a first. But when I got out of the car in the driveway, I noticed that the front of my bike had become disconnected from the fork mount on my roof rack. Initially, I though it was because I didn’t clamp it down enough. In reality, it was likely because I had clamped it too tight, causing the jolt from the pothole to sheer off the left dropout from the carbon fiber fork.

Fu……!

8:45pm on the night before a 4:30am wakeup to drive to the ride, and no workable bike!

We brainstormed options. These included going back to Centralia to see if the bartender at McMenamins had any connections, or knew the bike shop owner to replace the fork (a 1″ one, no less). After this much effort, bailing on the ride, a semi-logical option, was not considered. The best option I decided on was to drive back to Seattle to grab my hybrid commuter in the hopes of throwing some slicker tires on it to make it a serviceable replacement. But that would likely have put my return to Centralia in the 1am range. Oh well. Back I went.

But, as I was pulling back on the freeway, I got a call from Dan. Turns out, his friend Ryan’s brother-in-law had an older road bike sitting in his garage in Olympia that was available for borrowing. Interesting. The bike was an unknown quantity, but given the choice between a late night 2 hour+ round trip to Seattle and a random loaner nearby, I decided to go for the latter. On the phone with Ryan’s BIL, I stumbled around looking for the spare key, got into the garage, and checked out the bike. It was an older Raleigh Technium that looked to be in reasonably good shape. It had flat pedals and old-school downtube shifters, but when I took it for a spin, it fit and rode well enough that I was sold on giving it a whirl (and not driving back to Seattle). I figured we could swap some parts at the start line to make it race-worthy.

Raleigh Technium

So, I headed south to Centralia back to the cabin, unloaded, and tucked into bed. I slept surprisingly well (normally I am quite antsy the night before a long ride). 4:30 came way too early, but Tom made eggs and coffee, and after scarfing down breakfast, we packed up the cars and headed east.

Jersey

The start line was open from 7am – 8am, and we rolled into Packwood around 7:15, well after the majority of riders had left. We passed a large peloton underway on the drive into town. Getting the loaner bike in order proved to be more of an ordeal than anticipated. It took a while to borrow a pedal wrench to swap my clipless pedals onto the Raleign (otherwise it was going to be 115 miles in flip flops!). Also I needed to adjust the seat height, re-wrap the handlebars with some new tape that Tom had, and of course, take care of important details like mounting the GoPro and Garmin GPS.

Things were getting tight, but threatened to be denied entry by the paranoid start line staff, we hopped on the bikes and embarked on the ride at 8am on the dot.

We stopped less than a minute into the journey when the fender on my bike was rubbing slightly on the rear wheel. Not wanting to be bothered with that issue for the next few hours, we took the fender off and handed it to a nearby ride support vehicle for safekeeping. And then we continued on.

We made good time for the first fifteen miles from Packwood to Randle, maintaining a nice pace line and alternating lead position. Aside from my getting acclimated to the old school shift levers, the Raleigh was holding up quite nicely and my mind slowly shifted from worrying about the bike to worrying about me. But, so far so good on both accounts.

The next ten miles started with a brief and strenuous climb, but quickly mellowed out into a gradual descent. We stopped for water and snacks at mile 26, and then the real slog began. Thirty miles of nearly constant climbing in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest to reach the Windy Ridge overlook of Mt. St. Helens. For the first half or so, we were at least protected by the shade of the winding forest roads, but the latter half was more exposed to the rising heat. Scenic views of the St. Helens landscape provided some distraction from the climb, but not enough. Reaching Windy Ridge (the highest point of the ride) at mile 53 provided a nice respite and an opportunity to soak in the view, but I didn’t linger long, eager to wrap up the remaining 60 miles.

We stopped for a nice lunch at the Cascade Peaks overlook, a few miles on the return route after Windy Ridge. Typical for a long, supported ride, we stuffed our faces with bananas, PB&J, cookies, and whatever other high carb munchies were laying around. After refilling the water bottles, we took to the bikes again.

The next 25 miles were largely a continual descent with two moderate hills thrown in to make sure the legs were still working. But overall, the fast, windy downhill was a welcome change from the vertical assault that dominated the earlier part of the ride. Soon enough, we were back at the Iron Creek rest stop with 80 miles under wraps. 35 to go!

The mechanic working the repair stand at Iron Creek said “it was mostly rolling hills” for the rest of the ride, but with a 500 foot gradual climb over the next eight miles, I didn’t find much “rolling” – just a hill. At mile 92, I stopped at the last water stop to fill up the bottles for the final push. The lady helping out there assured me it was all downhill or flat for the rest of the way. I was doubtful, but it turned out to be accurate.

My next incident happened a few miles later when I crashed on a downhill. I’m not exactly sure what happened. The bike was a little prone to overshifting on the rear cassette, and the front gears were occasionally a little off too. Combined with my lack of familiarity with the down tube shifting, I’d occasionally slip the chain off the front chain ring. Whatever I did this time, I caused the chain to wrap around the crank arms, which basically locked up the chain and caused me to quickly lose control. Fortunately I was able to scrub off a bit of speed on the downhill and do a “skid crash”, but I ended up going down fairly hard.

After regaining composure, and getting me, my bike, and the scattered debris of bottles and pump off the road, I figured out what was next. Body damage was limited to some bad scrapes on my arm and legs (and some ripped shorts), the chain was wrapped around the crank arm about three times, the handlebars were loose, and the right brake lever was displaced quite a bit from the fall. I was also hot and I was tired. I thought about waiting for the sag wagon, but as I settled down, and gradually began to deal with the bike issues, I became more determined to finish the ride. “I’ve ridden 95 miles so far, half uphill, I only have twenty to go. I am going to finish this fucking ride.” Or something like that stuck in my head.

Once I was convinced the bike was “ridable enough”, I ventured on. I finished off the descent back into Randle, and then turned right onto Highway 12 for the last sixteen miles, mostly flat, back to Packwood. I considered stopping off at a gas station to clean up the cuts, but I didn’t want to lose momentum and really I just wanted to be done with the ride. I counted down every last mile into town. Around 4:45pm, fifteen minutes before the 5pm cutoff, I rolled into the finish line, exhausted and stoked to be done.

We chilled at the finish line festival for a bit, enjoying a beer and throwing down more food. But with the three hour return to Seattle, we couldn’t hang long and soon packed up and headed back.

Upon returning home, Meagan dealt with my bruised body and Montlake Bike Shop is dealing with the bruised bikes. The Raleign has been restored to good working order, helping to assuage my conscience for crashing a bike that a kind stranger graciously loaned me. The Dean awaits a replacement fork, which is serving as a reminder that carbon fiber bike parts are quite freaking expensive. It’s also a little worrying that I’m getting to be on a first name basis with my bike mechanic.

The GoPro 30-second time lapse footage was “OK”. The battery crapped out about halfway through the ride (and I left the spare on top of my car in the parking log during the mad scramble to get ready…).

For a relative lack of training, I was pretty happy to finish the ride. Thanks to Dan and Tom for sharing in the fun and goading me into the adventure and to Alex for the loaner bike (and Ryan for helping secure it)!

 

Southeast Asian Adventure Part 5: Banyan Tree Phuket

The last stop on our Asia trip was at the Banyan Tree Phuket resort. Our visit here was in many ways much like our previous stay at Phi Phi Island Village: lots of eating, swimming, and relaxing with a bit of activity sprinkled in here and there. The main difference was that, while Phi Phi Island Village was superbly nice, the Banyan Tree was off the hook nice – we definitely saved the best spot for last.

Let’s start with our “room” – which was a large villa complete with its own garden, a riverside Jacuzzi, and an outdoor sunken tub, among other touches. (The really nice ones were “double pool” villas, which as you might guess, had not one, but two pools. Excessive.) Everything else about the Banyan Tree was similarly top-notch. It was a pretty sprawling place, so depending on where you were going, you’d often have to call a “buggy” (a golf cart) to give you a ride. We tried not to be too lazy, but it was big and we were on vacation.

 

 

 

As for the trip itself:

Tuesday (4/5): Arrived. Got introduction from reception, chatted about Scuba options with concierge and booked a trip for the next day. My white swimsuit got pretty destroyed from chlorine + sunscreen + wetsuit at Ko Phi Phi, so I grabbed a shuttle into town to try to find a new one. It was disturbingly difficult finding a non-Euro skimpy option but at the last place I stopped I was able to get some passable board shorts. I returned to join Meagan lounging by the pool.

 

 

After a poolside lunch, we hopped on a buggy to the oceanside beach, which had to be one of the prettiest, most mellow spots. After relaxing and swimming for a while, we headed back and changed for dinner, but then I returned to the beach for some sunset photos. The sunset was a little muddled by the clouds, but it was still quite nice.

 

For dinner, we went to the far side of the resort to Tre, a French Vietnamese restaurant overlooking the river and the double-pool villas. We were literally the only ones dining there that night – I think the previous storms + the upcoming Thai new year holiday meant that there were fewer guests than normal at the Banyan Tree. I no longer remember what we had, but I remember that it was amazing. We were entertained along with the staff by chucking old pieces of bread into the water to trigger a feeding frenzy among the fish.

 

Wednesday (4/6): Pretty much a full day of scuba diving. Got up early, had breakfast by myself at the stellar breakfast buffet which included all-you-can-eat mango sticky rice. Listened to a mellow tropical adaption of Ke$ha’s “Tik Tok”. The waiter caught me trying to record it with my phone and offered to hold it closer to the actual speaker for me. Quite embarrassed. After breakfast, the scuba shuttle picked me up and we headed to the southern part of Phuket to meet the boat. It took a little more than an hour since I was the first pick-up on the northern side and we had to fetch the rest of the divers along the way.

 

Diving itself was pretty stellar. Locals were a little disappointed by the relative lack of visibility and wildlife, but as a novice diver who had only done cold water dives until this trip, I thought it was pretty sweet. We did three dives: Ko Dokmai (a small island), King Cruiser Wreck (a sunken ferry boat), and Shark’s Point (sadly no sharks). We went with Euro Divers, who I’d highly recommend for their ability to cater to beginners and experienced divers alike (largely due to my instructor Nok’s patience!). I was happy with my progression and increased ability to manage my buoyancy, but I was definitely still a “heavy breather” and one of the first ones up on each dive. Still, while I was down, we managed to see a lot, particularly on the last two dives. It was fun swimming through the sunken ferry boat – next time I’ll have to get an underwater camera!

After diving, we repeated the drop-off in the reverse order – me last. But the trip back included a great sunset drive of the western coastline. It also included a drive through Patong Beach, the Thai equivalent of Cancun, which was pretty entertaining.

Back at the hotel, I rejoined Meagan (who apparently had an epic spa day), and after enjoying the last of the sunset from the Jacuzzi, we finished off the day with a typically large meal, this one an Asian buffet at Water Court.

Thursday (4/7): Our last full day. Started off with a tropical breakfast and then continued with a trip to the spa. I thought I wasn’t much of a massage fan, but this one might have convinced me otherwise. Banyan Tree is known for having one of the best spas in Asia apparently. After an hour I felt pretty invigorated yet relaxed. The rest of the day was a mix of pool, sun, and ocean. A little bit of rain actually interrupted the afternoon, which would have been a less than ideal end to the trip, but we patiently waited it out and had a pleasant late afternoon at the beach. We capped the evening off with a waterfront cocktail and an awesome Thai dinner at Saffron.

 

Friday (4/8): The end of the trip, or at least the beginning of a long, long day of travel. We started with our last epic breakfast buffet, which included me finally having too much mango sticky rice. After chatting in Spanish for a while with our Ecuadorian waiter, we headed to the lobby to gather our stuff and begin the journey back.

 

 

The rest of the day was pretty much a blur: ride to the Phuket airport. Phuket to Hong Kong. Hong Kong to Vancouver. Vancouver to Seattle. And, due to the wonders of the International Date line, it was still Friday when we arrived.

Our friend JJ was kind enough to pick us up at the airport, and even dragged Lulu with him to greet us. Eager for some non-Asian food, we grabbed some Mexican food and margaritas at El Chupacabra in Greenwood near our house before turning in and beginning our long battle versus jet lag.

As you might expect, we weren’t keen for the trip to end – it was definitely hard leaving the Banyan Tree – but it was nice returning to our life in Seattle. I was looking forward to a weekend of post-vacation chilling and catching up with friends before the real world beckoned on Monday. Not to mention that we were still getting used to the St. Patrick’s Day news of Meagan matching for her residency at Seattle Children’s! To be honest we had largely forgotten about that big news on the trip and had lots of good times in Seattle to look forward to.

Another continent checked off, another amazing adventure with Meagan, and another new list of places that I’d like to go back to again. But, since I am pretty much dead out of vacation time now, that will have to wait another day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Southeast Asian Adventure Part 4: Ko Phi Phi

Continuing on the recap of our trip…

After two weeks of backpacking and site-seeing in Bangkok, Luang Prabang, and Siem Reap, we were eager to hit the beach for the final week of our Southeast Asia adventure. We had two such places in Thailand lined up, and the first one to visit was the island of Ko Phi Phi.

It took the better part of the day to reach Ko Phi Phi. Flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok and then on to Phuket, car ride from the airport to the Ao Port marina on the east side of Phuket, and then a 90 minute catamaran to Phi Phi Island Village, a nice resort on the northeast part of the island, fairly isolated from the more hectic center.

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We were there for about three days and did relatively little more than eat, drink, and hang out by the pool – which was just fine.

Saturday (4/2): Arrival. Greeted with a nice Pina Colada. checked into our villa, relaxed at the sunset bar, filled up at the “highlights of Asia” buffet dinner.

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Sunday (4/3): Relaxing breakfast, checked out the activities center, bummed around the pool most of the day, and again filled up at the “Regions of Thailand” buffet dinner.

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Monday (4/4): Breakfast, two-dive scuba trip to Maya Bay near the island of Ko Phi Phi Leh. Due to the recent storms, the visibility and amount of marine life was a little less than stellar, but compared to diving in the frigid waters of the Puget Sound (where I did my certification dives), it was pretty amazing (and warm!). Meagan did some snorkeling while I was down below. My dive buddy, Jan from Germany, was really nice. Ko Phi Phi Leh, incidentally, is the location where they filmed the Leo DiCaprio movie “The Beach”. It was chosen for its unspoiled and idyllic setting, which was indeed quite amazing, but the amount of tour boats there now kind of take away from that. Fortunately, since we were parked a little offshore, we didn’t have to pay the entrance fee.

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After diving, we relaxed some more back at the pool before finishing off with a non-buffer dinner at the beautiful Ruan Thai restaurant overlooking the rest of the resort. I started the meal with a spicy caiparinha that nearly destroyed all my taste buds.

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Tuesday (4/5): Departure day. I got up early to take some sunrise photographs. It was a little cloudier than the day before but it was still quite beautiful. We had one last tropical buffet breakfast before checking out and catching the catamaran back to Phuket Island.

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Our first two weeks of adventure in Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia was a ton of fun, but it was nice to wind down the trip with some mellow beach relaxation. And even though we were sad to leave Phi Phi Island, we were happy to know that we had a few more days of bumming around in store.

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Southeast Asian Adventure Part 3: Siem Reap

Our three week adventure to southeast Asia continued in the temple-surrounded Cambodian town of Siem Reap. As I noted in the Luang Prabang write-up, we didn’t originally plan to visit Cambodia, but when an unseasonable and unfortunate series of tropical storms pummeled the island of Koh Samui, Thailand (our intended next stop) and closed their airport, we quickly scrambled to find an alternate destination and fortunately we stumbled on Siem Reap.

The area is most known for its ancient temples – Angkor Wat in particular – but we quickly discovered there was a good bit more to the area than that.

We stayed at the Soria Moria Hotel, a really nice place close to the center of town that is owned by a Norwegian couple. I selected this place based on five minutes of Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor research when we changed our itinerary in Luang Prabang the night before. We couldn’t have been more happy with the choice. Great location, good price, super helpful and friendly staff, and owners who are committed to local causes – if you ever visit this area and are looking for a nicer but reasonably priced place, I can’t recommend Soria Moria enough.

We spent a total of about four days there, two of them on the omnipresent temple circuit. The rest of the time, we chilled about town, soaked up local culture, and checked out some of the other points of interest.

Our activities included:

* Tuesday: Arrived early in the afternoon. Met our tuk-tuk driver, Mr. Rith, who would coincidentally be our motor escort for much of our upcoming activities.

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Checked into hotel, met with awesome owner Kristin, got the low-down on activities. Got lunch at Butterflies Garden, a local Khmer restaurant with an enclosed outdoor butterfly garden.

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Walked around town and checked out the night market.

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Went to a dinner and Apsara dance performance at a nearby theatre. The food was a little meh, but the dancing was pretty cool – the “fisherman’s dance” and “coconut dance” were particularly entertaining. Sat in between a French couple and a group of four from Barcelona, so got to practice lots of Spanish. (In Cambodia, staying at a Norwegian hotel, speaking Spanish with a French couple.) Capped the night off with a cocktail on the rooftop deck.

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* Wednesday: First day of our temple circuit. Met our driver Mr. Rith and our guide Seila, who would be accompanying us and giving us the scoop on the temples for the next two days.

Out first stop was Angkor Wat. Immense. Largest religious structure in the world. Although created as a Hindu temple, it later was converted to a Buddhist one, so it was interesting to see the mix of religions in the sculptures. Unfortunately many of the heads of the Buddha statues had long been looted, a prevailing pattern in all of the temples we visited.

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Next up: Ta Prohm. This was my favorite one of the day. During the periods when the temple was abandoned, the jungle took over and now the structures have been overcome by large trees, many of which are essential for supporting the temple. Also interesting to learn that they will sometimes, when necessary for preservation, rebuild the temple, which involves the painstaking process of numbering all of the pieces and often deciphering the jigsaw puzzle of fallen pieces in order to recreate the structure. Ta Prohm was a location in the movie Tomb Raider.

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After a delicious lunch of chicken with hot, holy basil, we finished up at Bayon, part of the large Angkor Thom ancient city. Bayon has tons of multi-faced Buddha sculptures, which were impressive. Seila had some fun playing with perspective and having Meagan perform interesting poses with the Buddhas.

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We were fairly tired after a full day of temple visits. We capped the day off again with happy hour at the rooftop bar and had a nice dinner at Le Tigier de Papier in the main drag of Siem Reap.

* Thursday: Another full day of temples.

We met Seila and Mr. Rith after an early breakfast at the hotel and headed out for an hour long drive to Kbal Spean, the valley of one thousand Linga – a phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, the fertile symbol believed to consecrate the holy water. The visit itself was a two kilometer, moderately challenging hike to the waterfall and carvings. The waterfall was pretty tame due to the dry season, and the hike itself was moderately challenging due to the heat and my flip flops. We were starting to get “templed out” at this point.

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We hopped in the tuk-tuk and headed down the road to Banteay Srei – a beautiful red sandstone temple with a lot of really intricate carvings – they were noticeably more detailed and ornate than the others that we visited.

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Afterwards, we continued to the Cambodian Landmine Museum, an institution that explains the sad legacy of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge on Cambodia. Much of Cambodia is still covered in land mines as a result of the aftermath of the genocide of two million Cambodians. The museum’s creator, Aki Ra, was a former fighter on both sides of the conflict who has defused approximately 50,000 mines himself and created the museum to spread awareness of his efforts and to aid recovery. The foundation also runs an orphanage to help children whose lives have been affected by land mines. Profoundly moving.

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Our last temple visit was at Pre Rup, a large brick temple whose central tower was quite high and steep, and afforded a pleasant view of the surrounding area. On the way there, we stopped off at a roadside village and watched some locals making palm sugar.

 

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At this point we were fully templed out. After returning to Siem Reap, we had a relaxing dinner at Angkor Palm and joined up with a nice, solo traveler from South Africa, living in Australia, who was visiting Cambodia, which made for a fun diversion.

* Friday: Slept in and had a largely mellow day. Even though we had a week of Thai beach ahead of us, we needed a chill day to veg out, beat the heat, and do something besides temple chasing. We decided to visit a nearby silk farm, which was entertaining and educational. We picked up some souvenirs and gifts, and then headed back to town.

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In the afternoon, we had our best meal of the trip so far at a vegetarian Khmer restaurant, Chamkar. After that, we relaxed with some iced coffee and donuts at “Joe To Go”, and then grabbed a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel.

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In the evening, we watched a children’s version of the Apsara dance that was performed at the hotel, which was different but equally if not more entertaining than the one earlier in the week. We intended to go out after the show and dinner, but ended up crashing early.

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* Saturday: We got up early for our flight to Phuket and our next stop, the Thai island of Koh Phi Phi. We scarfed down breakfast, met Mr. Rith, and headed to the airport for a week of beach.

The wrench in our travel plans ended up making for some fun last minute scrambling, an entertaining visit to a historic city, and of course another visa and set of immigration stamps in the passport. Although Siem Reap is hardly undiscovered at this point, it still had a mellow vibe and overwhelming friendly people. The best parts of traveling are often the surprises.

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Who knows if and when we will return, but I was very happy with our detour and opportunity to visit Cambodia for the first time.

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Southeast Asian Adventure Part 2: Luang Prabang

After our introductory sojourn in Bangkok, our Asia trip continued to the mellow Laotian town of Luang Prabang. I didn’t know much about this place before arriving, which made my enjoyment of Luang Prabang even greater.

There’s seemingly little “to do” in Luang Prabang, but surprisingly that suited me just fine. Situated along the Mekong river in central Lao, Luang Prabang is home to a lot of monasteries and monks. After spending a few hours in town, it’s readily apparent how much of a presence this has, as you’ll frequently encounter novice monks walking about town.

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Many restaurants and hotels line the riverfront French-influenced streets, and the main road through town is filled with cafes and small shops. It’s a bit tourist-centered for sure, but the warm weather and slow pace to things has an alluring way of grabbing you and convincing you to settle in for a little while. We still kept busy with activities, but a good part of our enjoyment was relaxing by the river and soaking in the atmosphere.

The weather was unseasonably cooler than normal, mostly in the high 70′s to low 80′s with somewhat overcast conditions. For us, it meant a nice break from the searing tropical heat. For the locals, it meant sweater weather. “It’s so cold right now!”

We arrived last Thursday (March 24th) and stayed at the Apsara Hotel, a beautiful place on the bank of the Nam Khan River (an offshoot of the Mekong). Everyday started off with a relaxing breakfast on the patio overlooking the street and river.

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Our activities for the week roughly included:

* Thursday – Arrival. Strolled through town, checked out the night market, hit up Sala Cafe on the river for dinner.

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* Friday – Rented bikes. Strolled through town. Hit up multiple coffee shops (Saffron, Morning Glory). Hung out for apres-bike at a cool, huge bar overlooking the river called Utopia. Couldn’t help thinking that the unfenced patio would be a lawsuit waiting to happen in the US. Love it. Dinner at Tum Tum Cheng.

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* Saturday – Busy day. Got up at dawn to watch the giving of alms to the local monks. It seems to have become more of a tourist attraction but it’s hard to complain when you’re part of the problem – still, some groups seem to go way over the line.

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During the day, more coffee shops and walking around. I gave Meagan a quick primer on DSLR photography and I may have created a monster. It was nice not to lug the camera around and Meagan tools some pretty cool shots.

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In the afternoon, we hit up the National Museum, which was the former and opulent residence of the Lao royal family. Afterwards, climbed Mount Phousi, a large hill in the center of town with a temple at the top. Chatted with some novice monks who were eager to practice English. Amazing views from the top.

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Finished off with happy hour at Utopia followed by dinner at Blue Lagoon with a super friendly staff.

* Sunday – Chilled in the morning. Walked through the town and market. Coffee/lunch at Joma cafe (my favorite). Took a river boat up the Mekong to check out the Pak Ou Caves. The trip was enjoyable (if a little chilly due to the grey skies) and the caves were moderately interesting. Lots of Buddha statues. On the way there we stopped at a local village, which is apparently a frequent tourist stop judging from the number of people selling handmade scarves and other crafts. Finished off with dinner at an Indian restaurant.

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* Monday – Lao cooking class at Tamarind. Started off with a trip to the local market. Great experience, lots of sights and smells. Let’s just say that Laotians are much more comfortable with the breadth, depth, and storage conditions of their meat selections than we are accustomed to!

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Class was cool – met some interesting travelers, many of whose multi-month Asian excursions put our three-week jaunt to shame. We met a young couple from Sweden on an extended trip who plan to return home via the Siberian train. Awesome! We made a few dishes, including a super spicy vegetable dip, steamed fish in banana leaf, chicken stuffed in lemongrass (very creative), and something close to mango sticky rice!

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After class, we took a nap, had a glass of wine at Pack Luck Wine Bar, wandered through the Night Market again, and finished off with an awesome tableside Lao BBQ (and shot of Lao Lao whiskey!) at Lao Lao Garden.

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Throughout the week, we would occasionally check on the weather of our next planned destination, Koh Samui, Thailand. Our plan was for our trip to be about half backpacking, half sitting on the beach, and Koh Samui was the start of the beach plan. We got a little worried when the forecast indicated pretty much constant rain for the days leading up to our arrival, often with large amounts (2-3″). Not quite the beach weather we were hoping for, especially considering this is the dry season!

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(photo courtesy of Camille at http://samui-weather.blogspot.com/)

We stumbled upon a super-informative Koh Samui weather blog, and started to realize that the situation was more than unpleasant – it was getting dangerous, with lots of flooding, and the airport had recently closed, causing lots of stranded travelers. We scrambled to figure out our options. Fortunately wifi with a laptop in the hotel to check out flights on Kayak while Gmail chatting with friends who have been to various Asian destinations is a world of difference compared to my previous travel experience of stumbling from an Amsterdam coffee shop to an internet cafe!

We considered waiting it out in Luang Prabang or heading to the Thai mountain town of Chiang Mai, but Meagan randomly suggested “how about Cambodia?”. A little bit of searching, and we found a relatively cheap flight to Siem Reap the following day so we booked that! It looks like Koh Samui is finally starting to dry out and rebuild, but unfortunately not without a few casualties for the people living there.

Tuesday morning, we checked out and said our goodbyes to the friendly staff at the Apsara and headed to the airport. We’re now well into our Cambodian adventure, checking out the the temples of Angkor and the town of Siem Reap, and it’s been an excellent detour (not to mention another large visa in the passport). But more on that to come.

Luang Prabang was definitely a winner. Here are some more pictures – more to come later when we return home.

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Finally, here is Meagan, soon-to-be all-star pediatrician, gracing the streets of Luang Prabang in local style, sans helmet!

 

Luang Prabang – we’ll be back!

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Southeast Asian Adventure Part 1: Bangkok

Our three week adventure to southeast Asia (Thailand and Laos) is underway and so far we’re doing pretty well. We’ve now checked off Bangkok and checked into the Apsara in the welcomely chill town of Luang Prabang, set along the Mekong River in central Laos.

Sunday / Monday: The 24-Hour Crossing

Our trip started on Sunday when we departed Seattle. Our full day journey began with a quick hop to Vancouver, a fourteen hour not so quick hop to Hong Kong (where at some point Sunday morphed into Monday), finishing with a sleepy three hour flight into Bangkok. Given that this was my longest trip to date, I was a little worried about surviving the flight to Hong Kong in particular, but the food, drinks, naps, magazines, Lonely Planets, Kindle, laptop, iPod, and in-flight video (lots of Modern Family and a trashy Canadian food competition reality show) kept us entertained and made the trip tolerable.

After clearing customs in Bangkok, it took some time and some phone calls to sort out what I thought was the pre-arranged ride to our hotel, but eventually a driver with a sign reading something like “SITZGERALG” showed up, and we were on our way downtown. We arrived at our hotel, Sala Arun, around 11pm and promptly crashed.

Tuesday: Touring Ancient Wats

Given the time change, we both slept fairly well, and woke up on Tuesday morning to a nice riverside breakfast overlooking Wat Arun, a Buddhist temple across the river from our hotel. The two cups of coffee were especially delicious and we hoped to serve as a antidote to any impending jetlag weariness.

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After breakfast, we wandered around the neighborhood aiming to get our bearings as well as trying to acclimate to the non-Pacific-Northwest heat (about 95ºF). We stumbled upon Wat Pho, one of the “must sees” in Bangkok. It was quite impressive. The “Reclining Buddha”, at 46×15 meters, was truly something to behold.

We then continued our tour of ancient sites and made our way to Wat Phra Kaew and the Royal Palace, arguably the most famous site in Bangkok. It was an enormous temple and substantially more crowded than Wat Pho. We walked around, soaking in the atmosphere of the ornate temples and statues. The most notable temple here was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – what it lacked in size compared to the ginormous reclining Buddha it made up for in greenness. Sadly no pictures were allowed in this one.

Several hours of walking around in the heat was starting to get the best of us, so we cut that visit a bit short and headed east a few blocks for lunch at Chote Chitr. My fried white fish and Meagan’s curry were both tasty, but the highlight for me was the mango sticky rice I obtained across the street for dessert. It’s my favorite Thai dessert, and when I inquired of the restaurant’s owner whether they had it, she said no, but pointed me to the neighboring fruit stand and told me I could bring some back. That made my afternoon.

Fully satiated, we walked back to the hotel, and grabbed a pre-dinner drink and appetizer at the waterfront hotel down the street, the Deck by the River at Arun Residence. Well, it was supposed to be a pre-dinner drink, but when our pre-dinner naps turned into an extended 10pm snooze, it turned out to simply be a very light dinner. So much for defeating jetlag, but our first full day in Thailand was a good one.

Wednesday: Camera Troubles and Thai Cooking Class

With our super early bedtime, we had high hopes of waking up early on Wednesday to make a pre-dawn river ride to the northern market of Nonthaburi, but the torrential thunder, lightening, and rain didn’t bode well for a boat ride and outdoor market. Bummer. We instead made our way downstairs for breakfast and contemplated our options for our last full day in Bangkok. Walking around Chinatown in the rain didn’t seem super appealing either, and I was ho-hum on doing a museum, so we called around to a few cooking schools and booked a 4pm class.

In the interim, I was preoccupied that my camera had a spot on the sensor, and since Bangkok was the last and only major city on the trip, I was fixated on seeing if I could get that taken care of. Given the weather, it seemed like a reasonable option and Meagan was a good sport. I actually tried to make a run to the Nikon store the night before (post-drink, pre-nap), but completely underestimated the distance to the Silom district and the nightmarish Bangkok traffic and basically made a two hour, round-trip cab ride between our hotel and the what would end up being closed Nikon store. Oh well – I chalked that up to “fully experiencing the culture”.

This time, a little wiser for the wear, we decided to take the River Express south and connected to the Skytrain. This trip was much more pleasant and uneventful and we made it to the Nikon store in about an hour. Unfortunately, the sensor wasn’t so much “dirty” as it was “scratched”, which isn’t possible to fix on the spot and which will likely set me back some good coin when we return. Fortunately it doesn’t seem to be affecting the images too badly.

Done with this errand, we grabbed lunch nearby at Khrua Aroy Aroy and then checked out a Hindhu temple, Sri Mahariamman, next door. We then returned via the Skytrain + riverboat to the port of Tha Phra Athit. We walked through the neighborhood of Banglamphu, grabbed some coffee, and eventually made our way to the major backpacker thoroughfare of Khao San Road. This was a different version of chaotic Bangkok. After soaking up the international tourist scene, we walked into the D&D Inn, enjoyed some pre-class beers, and then headed to class at Khao Cooking School.

The cooking class was definitely the highlight of the trip so far. Ning and her mom Kobkaew, a well known Thai chef and instructor, were super friendly and awesome, and it was cool to have the class to ourselves. It was fun to learn more about Thai ingredients (like Galangal) and technique (like how to make a proper Panaeng curry by extensively crushing Thai chilis and lots of other ingredients in a mortar and pestle).

My favorite part of the experience was when Ning realized I was pretty comfortable in the kitchen and undertook a certain focus while behind the wok making my Phad Thai. “Ohhh…so relaxed before but now so serious!”. When I cracked an egg into the Pad Thai with a certain amount of flair and authority, Ning commented to Meagan: “Wow, your husband knows how to cook – you should keep him!”. Totally made my day!

We made three dishes in total: Phad Thai, Tom Yam Goong (Spicy Prawn Soup), and Panaeng Curry -  all delicious. By the end, we were stuffed, and whatever hopes we had of a final dinner in Bangkok went out the door. But it was well worth it, as much for the cooking lessons as it was for meeting Ning and Kobkaew. After class, we walked back through the backpacker maze and grabbed a cab to the hotel. Jetlag was catching up again, so we called it an early night and packed up for our early morning flight to Luang Prabang.

The cab ride was more entertaining than anticipated. Our friendly driver played a Bee Gee’s DVD while enthusiastically singing along the entire way. Awesome. While having a minor dispute over the fare (which we pre-paid through the hotel), another cab driver plowed into another cab, whose momentum carried it into ours. Fortunately no one was hurt and everyone seemed more amused than annoyed. A quick phone call settled our dispute, and we grabbed our bags and headed into the terminal, humming “You Should Be Dancing” inside our heads.

Our time in Bangkok flew by quite quickly – it’s impossible to do the city any amount of justice in only two days, especially when it’s your first stop on your first trip to Asia. But I’m glad to have had the introduction, and hope to return someday.

More pictures to be posted later, and more adventures to come!

Alaska Trip So Far

Since my track record for posting timely, detailed, and pictorial blog posts on trips is at best 25% (I still have aspirations of blogging about our African honeymoon 2.5 years ago…), I figured it would be best to write a short and sweet update for the Alaska trip so far.

This trip originated last year when the Seattle Jibber crew started discussing our next ski adventure, and Alaska heliskiing was high on everyone’s list. The details got sorted out over a few beer sessions at Naked City Taphouse and via many long email threads. But, several months later, we got our shit together (and purchased many bonus pieces of riding/safety/photographic gear), and made it to AK and Points North Heli Adventures.

The only problem is there isn’t any new snow. It hasn’t snowed in over a month, and apparently it’s bluebird in the forecast for at least the next week. Given that we forked over a lot of coin for the dream of endless epic Chugach powder lines, the lack of snow was a potential problem.

“Was” being the operative word. As JJ put it, the powder heli-boarding trip has become “Winter Camp for Adults”. We’ve definitely done a lot of flying and riding, but the amazing scenery, great crew, awesome old and new friends, and the constant and creative search for interesting entertainment in the middle of nowhere has taken precedence over the Mars-like snow conditions.

As for the snow, there have been a few pockets of goodness, but generally those pockets are surrounded by extra-terrestial conditions that I would honestly describe as the roughest I’ve ridden (which is something to be said for a unique experience). On the first night, when chatting up the guides over a few beers, most of them euphemistically would describe it as:  “It’s a little ‘firm’ out there.” I was a little worried when one of our guides, who after a few beers might have been being a bit more transparent than he should, when asked how it would be on a snowboard, replied, with a worrying look on his face: “Oh, you’re fucked.”

Other favorite quotes about the conditions: “Falling really isn’t an option here.”, “It’s Blower Hardpack!”, and “Sastrugi“. As for falling, there have been definitely a few longer than expected slides on relatively mellow terrain because the snow was just so hard and icy, so we’re definitely riding with an extra level of caution (and a harness in case we wander off and fall in a crevasse). But so far, we’re keeping things in check.

But what is lacking in powder is more than made up for in unreal scenery. It’s such a treat to be surrounded by tons of jagged, steep, snow-capped mountains and glaciers while overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The sunsets have been particularly surreal. Living in Seattle, we’re blessed by some pretty stellar landscapes, but Alaska takes it to eleven.

On the down days, or the after-ski time, there’s been a ton to do, often contrived and invented. Activities have included:
* Jibber Pong – a  hybrid sport combining the best elements of ping pong and beer pong recently invented by our crew and about to take the world by storm via some new acquaintances who have quickly adopted it – expect this to be the national pastime of France in about three years
* Sumo Wrestling – the PNH crew has some overstuffed Sumo costumes and one of the guides (Jim) appears to be formally trained as a referee
* Northern Lights – the Aurora Borealis is quite visible here, and last night it went off big
* Cordova Pub Crawl – after an aborted day of flying, we hit up three of the local pubs
* Helibeaching – on a down day, we flew twenty minutes to a local beach for amazing scenery, a bonfire, grilling, and chucking the football on the beach
* Tripps – late one night, one of our guides and the chef stopped by asking if we were interested in playing a dice game. It was pretty enthralling.

Winter Camp is pretty fun indeed. Kudos to Kevin and Jessica and all the guides and staff (especially our fearless leaders Kip and Tom) and the Jibber crew for keeping the stoke up and turning what could be a disappointing trip into something epic nonetheless.

And we have three more days. Time to go shoot stuff. Or maybe a glacier hike. It will be fun.

Northern Lights - photo by Brian Nevins

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